I have a Chase credit card that I rarely use. The account is set to auto-pay and usually, the only charge each month is a single subscription for which that card is set up as the payment method. I recently logged into my Chase account and noticed that I am being, and have been for years, charged $16.99 a month for an HBO Max account. This totals in the ballpark of $1,000. Here's a brief summary of what's happened so far. **Background:** * I had been subscribed to HBO Max years ago, but I was pretty certain I had canceled that subscription around 2020 * Still not wanting an HBO Max subscription, I logged onto my account with the intention of canceling it * As I had originally expected, my account did not have an active subscription * I then attempted to log in with all other email addresses I have, but none of them were associated with HBO accounts **What I've tried:** I contacted HBO support who attempted to locate the account. I shared: * All known email addresses * The account information of the card being charged * CC statements showing the charge on my account HBO support was unable to locate any active account associated with that payment information and then basically washed their hands of the matter. They instructed me to dispute the charge with my financial institution and have not given any guidance on how to move forward with HBO. This doesn't feel right. Given the fact that they can't locate the account, it seems to me that they have been erroneously charging me for an account I don't have for years. I would certainly like that money returned to me, and it doesn't feel like my financial institution should be responsible for this. Granted I should have paid closer attention to my financial accounts, but I was being charged for a service that I didn't purchase and that was never provided. **My question:** What course of action would give me the best chance of getting all, or at least some, of my money back? Should I pursue this with HBO further, file with a consumer protection agency, or just dispute with Chase?

My daughter is 28 yo. She just bought a 2023 Subaru cross Trek. She was on our auto insurance since she started driving, although she moved about 5 years ago. When she bought the car the insurance company called and told her she had to get her own policy. We have mercury insurance. They gave her a quote for about $4000 per year. She has had a couple accidents. Wondering if anyone can give a few companies that are cheaper. She has been teaching for 5 years, so, educator discount? She lives in 90031 zip. Thank you.

I just got car insurance for my new car and I got a letter days later saying they were missing a “signed application” from me. What does that even mean? I then called the customer service line and they put me on hold for an hour so I gave up. This was first acceptance car insurance

I got rear ended (hit and run) but it resulted in me hitting someone else. The guy I hit has a tiny scratch on his car and there’s deep crack mine that’s barely noticeable. The guy didn’t seem to care, he was fine, and seemed like he was in a hurry to get out of there before the police arrived. I got his license plate and he got my insurance information but I forgot to get his. Since there’s like barely any damage and no one got hurt do you think he’ll report it? I’m worried because I have USAA but it’s the bare minimum and when checking my insurance policy, I realized I put that I own my vehicle but it’s actually leased. I still owe a few thousand on it. I want to be honest with my insurance but I am so worried about the resulting possibly financial burden. I live in VA if that matters.

Ever since they merged it with the main app, it hasn't worked for me. The tab just says "Something went wrong and we can't display your Drive Safe & Save info right now." How do I get it to work? I just got an email saying I need to complete steps on that tab or else I will lose my discount.

Located in Oregon, USA Short Term Disability insurance related to parental leave I took parental leave from work in 2024. My job/company is entirely remote, so my employer uses a benefits manager, JW, for payroll and insurance, and a third party administrator, Sparrow, specifically to manage short- or long-term leave, kind of like a concierge service for employees (because rules vary significantly from state to state). I signed the things that Sparrow told me to sign. I was supposed to be paid from the state, from private STD, and topped up by my employer. I didn’t have a STD policy of my own; I was told that my employer took out a STD policy on its employees. Payments were confusing, delayed, and as a new parent I was not paying attention. I didn’t tally things up until recently to do my taxes. I’m missing a 1099 from STD so I called Sparrow, who said go to STD, who said go to JW, who said there was no STD policy for me… but if there was it should be in my W2. Taxes were withheld from STD so I said regardless of how we got here, I need an accurate W2, which is in the works. And it looks like I was overpaid by the STD amount. Lo and behold, today I got a call from the STD company saying my STD claim was denied and submitted for overpayment. I kinda laughed… I’d just been signing paperwork and living my life. How the heck did they approve and pay a claim on a policy that does’t exist? And why did Sparrow/JW request that money? And why was I told it was my company’s policy? So I told the STD company that they can recoup the money from one of the benefits managers. This strikes me as an unenforceable request for repayment from me, but I don’t know what I don’t know and would appreciate any insight about how to navigate this. Thanks in advance.

Here’s my situation: I’ve got 27k in debt across 3 credit cards, thanks at an accident last summer that insurance wouldn’t cover. I own my home outright. Zero mortgage, 8k/year in taxes. The obvious answer is to take out a home equity loan, but here’s the rub: I’m self-employed and have zero proof of income. I don’t draw a paycheck, and haven’t filed taxes since 2021 (reportable income has been less than the standard deduction, so I was advised I didn’t need to). The business sustains itself with profit, which is all reinvested in the company. Other than becoming the Gustavo Fring of the Southeast, does anyone have suggestions?

I’m looking for auto insurance but I keep getting ridiculous monthly quotes from $700 to $900. I’m a 2nd year college student, 20 years old had my license since I was 18, no accidents. I don’t have any car under my name, but i would be trying to get an old mercedes insured which is considered a “sports” car (family car they don’t use) for some reason. I am currently living with my parents, last time i called, progressive started charging my parents for me to NOT drive, to be an excluded driver. Which was crazy to me. I had to call and tell them I moved address. I tried getting a quote using a fake address saying I live with a friend but they started naming people in said address and asking for their DOBs (which i also read was fraudish?). I really don’t know what to do, i need to commute to school full time, but money is tight with classes, any advice ? Thanks !

I currently have condo insurance with Mercury, but their dwelling coverage isn't high enough, so I asked my Mercury agent how much it would cost to buy more dwelling coverage. He didn't respond for almost 3 weeks, which was concerning and surprising because when he were wooing me, he responded within hours. I shopped around and got a slightly lower quote from Progressive. The low cost is nice, but I'd rather go with the company that'll actually pull through in case something happens. I read a bunch of reddit posts about both Progressive and Mercury, but the experiences all seem so varied and I have no idea who's the most reliable. Sadly, they both seem kind of shitty, but we're strapped for options in California and I can't find anyone else who will take me. I've looked on various insurance ranking websites, but so many sources contradict each other. (For example, Mercury won best insurer in 2021 with JD Power but they have a low star ranking for customer satisfaction with NerdWallet.) With so much contradictory and anecdotal information, how does one even choose a home insurance company? It doesn't seem like there's a general consensus on reddit either about one company over the other.

My father died and we are in process of cleaning and getting ready for resale in Illinois. I called State Farm and explained they told me the renewal in October may be subject to non renewal. And said to add a vacancy clause will be very expensive. Should I shop Around now or wait? I am executor. What happens to utilities if house isn’t insured? Someone told me they get turned off.