When I bought my car in 2022 i was living with my dad in florida and he signed for the car with me, in order to bring my payments down a bit the dealer recommended he be listed as the owner and i am the co-owner. I have since moved to Illinois and I was looking to bring down my insurance by getting my own policy, but he ended up receiving a threat to suspend his license for the car not being insured even though it was, so i just added him to my policy anyway. Now I’m trying to get a new policy because unfortunately my dads been in like 3 accidents in the last few years so State Farm dropped me after i added him on. Does anyone know if the primary owner HAS to be insured even if across the country or if he could file something specific proving insurance without him being listed? Or would i be able to just make myself the primary owner even though i’m still financing the car?

I live in the Central/Northern Arkansas area with State Farm as my insurance provider and I am 20(M) I own two vehicles: 2009 Chevy HHR LT Panel(2.2L Ecotec) 1997 GMC Sierra SLE(5.7L Vortec w/ 4L60E) Both of my vehicles are covered under liability. I was recently rear ended on the interstate in my truck, it honestly held up pretty good, but still a decent bit of damage. An appraiser came out and said it was about $3,700 worth of damages. They then have to run a report on my truck to find the total value. From what I understand, they find a vehicle in my relative area (the two they found are in Kansas and Tennessee) and take the retail, or selling price, and use a formula to calculate the Actual Cash Value(ACV). They then look at the features on those vehicles, compare and contrast them to mine, thus raising or lowering the value of my truck with each feature, to determine how much my truck is worth. Finally got a call back, they say it’s totaled and their number is $2,959, meaning they would be buying it from me and taking it. And there’s potential that I cannot buy it back depending on whether they deem it unsafe to drive. I feel like I’m being cheated. My truck is still running and driving perfectly fine, I can tell there’s a little bit of frame damage at the rear under the bed(the truck hit my receiver and it slightly bent the frame inward). It’s very difficult to find a vehicle that not only is as reliable as my truck is, but also has the capabilities mine does. Not to mention the fact that my Great Grandfather gave me the truck, and he was the original owner. And currently my truck is also my only form of transportation because my dad and I are in the process of rebuilding the motor in my car. If I try to find a truck like mine anywhere, it’s easily double what they’re trying to pay me. Some people want $2,500 for a truck in the condition mine is in with no motor or transmission, or serious problems with one or the other. Note: Accident was a hit and run, driver at fault was not found. I was rear ended and pushed slightly into another truck. Also, for reference, I will list the prior and current conditions of my truck: Prior: 261,000 miles Dash slightly cracked Grille slightly cracked(have a new one just haven’t replaced it) Clear coat peeling and sun damaged in some areas Very minor dings/scratches Cloth seats, carpet, and headliner had minor holes, tears, and/or stains Current: 262,000(what the appraiser recorded) Dash cracked slightly more Rear bumper pushed into bed on passenger side Bed pushing into cab denting both pillars Bed now unaligned from cab slightly Driver seat leaning to the right slightly, will not recline forward or back Tailgate slightly scuffed and dented Receiver almost broke in half and bent the frame slightly Front bumper pushed backward, slightly crushing the filler panel in between the bumper and grille Very slight crease on the back passenger fender I would be perfectly fine with the $2,900 if I could just keep my truck without having to pay extra. The salvage retention fee is $811 and some change, and my deductible is $250. And still no guarantee I could get it back until I tell them to run the report. They said I could send in other comparable trucks, but it has to be “a link I can click on to see exactly what you’re seeing and include the vin number”. Doing so could potentially raise the value of my truck, but only ever so slightly from what I’ve been told, and if I were to do that, it would have to be before they tell me whether or not I’d be able to keep my truck. If y’all need more information feel free to ask, I just want some help and guidance. Another note: at the end of January the dryer in my old apartment caught fire and everything was smoke damaged. My gf and I at the time got a new apartment and then we broke up mid February, and the wreck happened at the beginning of March. I don’t know how I am holding it together.

Hello, I have an HSA with Optum Bank that I am transferring to another institution. A couple of weeks ago, I had a phone call with Optum where they had told me to liquidate my investments before initiating the transfer. Right after we hung up the phone, I liquidated all my investments and initiated the transfer with the other institution (Fidelity). I sold X amount of shares of VFIAX at share price of $565.06. A few days after liquidating everything, there was a purchase of shares on my account using my entire account balance, purchasing shares of VFIAX at a share price $567.88. It turns out that my account had a flag named HSA auto-transfer enabled, which is the cause of this. VFIAX has dropped a significant amount since this purchase was made. As of now, it is priced at $530 per share, which will drop even lower today. I am upset because the representative from Optum did NOT inform me that auto-invest was enabled, and my entire portfolio is down about 7% due to this. I just spoke with a supervisor at Optum to see if they can reverse this transaction and they said there is nothing they can do. The only thing I can do from this point is to disable auto-invest and liquidate all my shares for a loss. Is there anything I can do about this? I'm upset that I have to take a loss due to the phone rep not telling me to disable this feature. It's also caused delay on the transfer process to Fidelity.

Is it even legal for Healthy Paws pet insurance to increase premiums at almost 200% in CA? This is outrageously high!! Anyone experiencing the same? #healthypawspetinsurance

I've paid $3332 in premiums for my dog's insurance policy. Now, the first time I try to file a claim for a dental extraction, it is not approved because she had a pre-existing condition of "mild gingivitis" three years before our policy began. [They boast all over their website that they have the most extensive coverage for dental compared to other pet insurances](https://www.fetchpet.com/the-dig/does-pet-insurance-cover-dental-care), but they do not. My dog's gingivitis was so mild at that time the vet said it was not a concern, but apparently that is considered a pre-existing condition. Just want to warn other pet owners out there.

I work for an employer that does Cigna healthcare with three tiers, but the costs for all three plans are similar to the three tiers that Blue Cross Blue Shield offers on the open market. I currently have a premium plan with BCBS for ~$1400/month and my employer’s premium plan is also ~$1400/month. How do companies get away with “offering” healthcare insurance that isn’t subsidized at all? This seems very disingenuous

I just bought a SFH with an attached JADU and an ADU. When we get our insurance through AAA we asked for landlord insurance since we would be renting out the main House and JADU. We are living in the ADU. The agent put us down with coverage and told us this did not cover belongings in the rentals. I am confused about what kind of insurance he gave us since AAA called us back and told us we need to talk with a specialist for landlord insurance. We also have a 2M umbrella policy. What insurance should I be asking for exactly to get this correct?

I have an interest-free card that I used for some remodeling on a property. It is interest-free for 18 months, so I charged all materials and labor to it. The first payment was due yesterday, and I set up autopay from the property's bank account. The autopay only had one option: "amount due." I naively thought that meant the minimum amount due, not the entire credit card bill. Well, yesterday, the creditor withdrew the entire amount from the bank account. The funds were there, so it was not returned. I called Chase (the card issuer) last night when I saw the transaction pending, and they said they couldn't help me since it was on autopay. I called my bank this morning, and they said they can't help me either since it is an ACH. They mentioned that I could possibly dispute it, but that process would take almost two months. Is there really no way to reverse that charge and pay them the minimum amount due instead? I got the card specifically to avoid impacting the cash flow and had a plan to pay it off while it was still interest-free. I genuinely did not know the amount Chase was going to deduct, it did not tell me when I set up Auto-Pay or anything. Am I just not talking to the right people, or is there really no way to assist me? ********* Update: Called Chase again and a manager helped me. She said since I didn’t have a minimum payment due, the option wasn’t there to pay minimum and that’s why I only had the “pay amount due” option. They are refunding me! And I don’t owe anything till August.

Hey everyone, I got a call recently from a company called Wilber, saying I owe them money for an insurance-related matter. But the amount they’re asking for is way more than what I actually owe. This happened in Texas, and it caught me off guard. I tried asking for a breakdown of the charges, but it still doesn’t add up. It feels shady, and now I’m just wondering—has anyone else in Texas dealt with something similar from Wilber? Did you resolve it? Did they back off or escalate it? Just trying to figure out if I’m being taken advantage of or if this is some standard (but aggressive) practice. Any advice or shared experience would really help. Thanks in advance!

Back in 2023/2024 we had a tree brand fall on the A frame of our Highlander. We called state farm, they decided after an assessment a repair would do the trick. They wouldn’t let us use Toyota without paying 50% out of pocket. So we ended up using their preferred shop. Long story short, the replaced the windshield and “repaired” the A frame. It was still leaking and we went back, they “repaired it again” and it was fine (minus the water stains on the head liner). It’s been about 16 months or so, and it is leaking again. No additional accidents or anything. My wife and I are incredible tired of dealing with this. Anyone have any tips on dealing with state farm for this situation? The value of the Highlander went down 10K just from the accident alone which is crazy state farm wouldn’t give us compensation for(IMO). We honestly would prefer to have a new Camry or something at this point and not worry about mold, stains, or possible leaks again. TIA.