I have a renters insurance claim due to a total loss from roof collapse and flooding during a storm. I sent in the inventory list (replacement cost policy) and there is about 10K in depreciation. My problem is I had $4k + (remaining after 2 weeks in a hotel and food) with loss of use but my adjuster gave me two weeks to move into a shoebox compared to a huge townhouse I had. I can’t even buy the vast amount of things I lost due to the sheer size of where I live with no storage (I have one closet compared to a whole finished basement and utility room). The list they sent with the check for actual cost is in my hands. The list is printed and huge (mine was a spreadsheet). I’m not happy. Quite frankly if I was given more time to use my loss of use (we did 2 weeks in a hotel for a permanent move) then I may have a larger place. I want my money back (replacement cost) and almost wish I negotiated a settlement. I’m not sure if that’s still possible but what’s the best route here since

My employer is putting our retirement funds (and a very nice match) into a TIAA Group Retirement Annuity account. I really don't want my money in an annuity, but there are no other options through their retirement plan, and the match is too good to pass up. Barring a major incident, I will likely work for them until I retire, and I don't anticipate taking the annuity upon retirement because it won't be enough to live on. Moving money out of a GRA takes 10 years, and I don't think I can start that process until I leave the company, leaving me in a potentially bad spot for up to 10 years after I retire. Does anyone know if I have an option I'm not seeing? I am putting money into an IRA as well, but not nearly as much, and I anticipate the bulk of my retirement savings will be tied up in this idiotic GRA.

Hello, I have an HSA with Optum Bank that I am transferring to another institution. A couple of weeks ago, I had a phone call with Optum where they had told me to liquidate my investments before initiating the transfer. Right after we hung up the phone, I liquidated all my investments and initiated the transfer with the other institution (Fidelity). I sold X amount of shares of VFIAX at share price of $565.06. A few days after liquidating everything, there was a purchase of shares on my account using my entire account balance, purchasing shares of VFIAX at a share price $567.88. It turns out that my account had a flag named HSA auto-transfer enabled, which is the cause of this. VFIAX has dropped a significant amount since this purchase was made. As of now, it is priced at $530 per share, which will drop even lower today. I am upset because the representative from Optum did NOT inform me that auto-invest was enabled, and my entire portfolio is down about 7% due to this. I just spoke with a supervisor at Optum to see if they can reverse this transaction and they said there is nothing they can do. The only thing I can do from this point is to disable auto-invest and liquidate all my shares for a loss. Is there anything I can do about this? I'm upset that I have to take a loss due to the phone rep not telling me to disable this feature. It's also caused delay on the transfer process to Fidelity.

I have a two year old mixed breed dog he has been on Fetch pet insurance since I adopted him as a puppy. I was paying about $25/month. The first year I did not make any claims so it did not increase. This past year I did have to make about $5,000 in claims which led to an IBD diagnosis. I have not made any claims since then. I just got my renewal notice and the new monthly cost is around $60/month. This doesn’t seem reasonable for the low coverage limit I have. This seems like an excessive increase. Is it worth switching pet insurance to something that has better coverage and is less than half the price but won’t cover pre-existing conditions and just saving the extra money for when it’s needed? What would you guys do?

A few weeks ago, my driveway suddenly collapsed. After some initial inspection, it was determined that the cause was a failed 96” storm drainage pipe running underneath the driveway. This pipe is in an easement, common area, which means it’s the HOA’s responsibility—not mine as the homeowner. The CC&R’s clearly state that the Association is responsible for the maintenance, inspection, and repairs of the retention basin. It’s been 6 weeks since the incident and since then, I’ve been trying to get the HOA to take action. They had a contractor and inspector out, and they’ve submitted a claim to their insurance company. However, progress has been really slow. I haven’t received clear answers or timelines, and the damage continues slowly worsen by the day. To make things more complicated, I’m currently part of a construction defect lawsuit—along with other homeowners—against the original builder. The HOA and the law firm plan to include this drainage pipe failure in the existing lawsuit, since their initial review suggests it was likely caused by “defective construction”. The law firm says they’re now waiting for a temporary repair recommendation from a geotech engineer expert. Once they have it, they’ll send it to the HOA board for review and approval (or denial of the repair). In the meantime, I got a message from the HOA’s insurance company saying coverage is still under review, but that I have a “duty to mitigate damages and should contact MY property damage insurance (WHAT?!?!). That’s confusing and frustrating, since the drainage system that failed is owned and maintained by the HOA—not me. I’m doing my best to stay on top of everything and keep communication professional, but it’s exhausting, and the lack of urgency from all sides is really frustrating. Would love to hear your thoughts—am I being unreasonable here? What else should I consider? Location: ca

How accurate does the quote be when “dealership” works with multiple auto insurance companies to get you the best rates possible. Family member (new driver), called Geico for a quote and was given a high rate. She went to a dealership to see a vehicle that she was interested and left the dealership with the vehicle. Her word was “the saleperson and the person that deals with insurance at the dealership was able to get her a better deal. I tried to tell her dealership just do their quote online and uses that to bait customers into buying the vehicles. Dealer: Geico- $1983 for 6 months full coverage Family member: (over the phone): Geico - $5,400 for 6 months full coverage Thanks for y’all feedbacks.

I've seen some posts like this but figured I would ask my own question. I have a 2010 f350 dually that I only use to carry the camper or pull the boat. I think I owe around 10k on the loan if that. My truck bed camper came loose and sat on my wheel well bending the bed rail and fender. I submitted it to geico and they gave me $1700. Few months later I got an estimate from a shop and it will be $8000 to fix. It's just cosmetic and doesn't bother me too much since I very rarely drive it. Can I keep the money and instead put a flatbed on the truck in the future? I'm 32 and this is my first insurance claim. I'm looking for advice from anyone but would like to know preferably from people with experience with keeping the money from geico. Any advice is appreciated!

Hey denied my cat’s mycoplasma diagnosis because his first vet record shows he was sneezing (self report by us.) however, he is a Persian and they tend to sneeze for no reason. The sneezing he was doing when he got sick was WAY different than just a smelling around sneeze. Now they’re saying it’s a preexisting condition when it’s not! (It was a bacterial infection, he didn’t have it when we got him for sure). We got him in December and he got his cold in February. I’m so upset and really regretting getting Lemonade

I just started a new job and received the Empower 401k fund options below. All of these funds appear to have high expense ratios (most around 1%) and overall don’t seem to be that great. I’m considering rolling over my old 401k to this new plan or an IRA. My old plan is valued at approximately $500k invested in passive total market index funds. I’m 40 married no kids. While I won’t be able to do the backdoor Roth IRA if I rollover my old plan to an IRA, I feel like the funds available at fidelity are superior to these. I’m just looking for another opinion on this before I make any decision. Thank you! American Century One Choice In Ret ARTAX - 1.01% American Century One Choice 2025 ARWAX - 1.03% American Century One Choice 2030 ARCMX American Century One Choice 2035 ARYAX American Century One Choice 2040 ARDMX American Century One Choice 2045 AROAX American Century One Choice 2050 ARFMX American Century One Choice 2055 AREMX - 1.14% Virtus NFJ International Value AFJAX - 1.3% American Funds EuroPacific Gr R3 RERCX - 1.12% Invesco Balanced-Risk Alle R5 ABRIX - 1.08% Invesco Developing Markets Y ODVYX MassMutual Global Svc. MGFYX - 1.13% Invesco Real Estate Y IARYX - 1% MFS Utilities R3 MMUHX - 1.02% PIMCO Commodity Real Ret Strat PCRAX2 - 1.45% Columbia Small Cap Index NMSAX - .45% Franklin Small Cap Value Fund FRVLX - .97% Invesco Discovery ODIYX - .79% MassMutual Mid Cap Growth Service.. MEFYX - .86% Virtus Ceredex Mid-Cap Value Equity I SMVTX - 1.02% BlackRock Equity Dividend MSDVX - .97% MassMutual Blue Chip Growth Service.MBCYX - .85% MM S&P 500 Index Adm MIEYX - .49% Loomis Sayles Strategic Income Fund Y NEZYX - .67% MFS Government Securities R3 MFGHX - .76% Invesco International Bond OIBYX - 79% Infl-Prot and Inc (MassMutual) MIPYX - .69% Capital Preservation Account CGPJQ0

I was rear-ended last year, and the at-fault driver's insurance covered the $14,700 in repairs. Afterward, I hired an appraiser, who reported a diminished value of $4,175. Once, I submitted the diminished value claim to the at-fault driver's insurance company, they offered me $300 and then began ignoring my attempts to communicate further. After filing a complaint with the Office of the Commissioner of Insurance, the insurance company finally got back to me and offered $2,000. It's less than I was hoping to get, but I'm worried that pushing for more could cause them to rescind the offer and force me to go to court. So, my question is, if I try (and fail) to get more, will the offer of $2,000 still stand?